Day 2

The most exciting event of the day happened just several hours ago. We were walking down Nevsky Pr. to go to dinner when we noticed that the street had been closed to traffic and people had taken over the entire street. As we walked farther, we thought that it had to do with the holidays that seem to still be taking place. But, then it became clear that no one really knew what was going on, and there were a lot of people milling around asking what was happening.

We finally made it to a large conglomeration of people...and there seemed to be a preponderance of old men and babushki (grandmothers/old women) standing about in the middle of the street. The militia had closed off all of the adjoining roads and were "containing" the old men and women in sort of a loose circle. It wasn't quite clear what was happening, and in fact, several people approached me and asked what was going on. After a while, signs started emerging and the babushki grabbed them and started walking around carrying them. Then, it became clear that what they were doing at that particular corner was holding up a very busy tram intersection. So tram's were backed up in three directions while the babushki protested the fare-hike for pensioners. (Up until two weeks ago, pensioners did not pay for public transportation. Now they do, and many can't afford it and are righteously angry).

Things began to escalate as one of the tram-drivers decided to take it into his own hands to move the blockade. So, he started up his tram and inched it toward the pensioners. The older men, sensibly, drew away. But, the babushki banded together and got right in front of the tram and wouldn't move. (I took a picture of it and it's posted below...sorry about the quality, it was dark and i couldn't get too close). They then elected one particularly outspoked babushka to shame the driver for trying to run over the "starukhi" (old women). It reminded me of the very dramatic scene of the tanks rolling into Moscow in the 90s and all the old women coming out to yell at the boys in the tanks telling them to go home.

I did manage to get a picture of one of the babushki with her sign, which I've posted below. We left before things heated up too much. By the time we returned, several hours later, everything was back to normal.

I met with Konstantin today. He had some very interesting things to say...including his views on the current state of Russia. He feels that it is following the same track as it has before, and it may be necessary for him to leave Russia in several years if things continue trending in the same direction. He is an amazing intellectual--a member of the true Russian intelligentsia. He gave me a great big packet of stuff to go through, and I will meet with him again after my return from Solovki. I'll have more to say about him when I get my notes together and translate the articles he gave me.

On a side note for those who know Russia: I can't find Kasha anywhere. We spent two hours looking for it this morning, and finally had to come back and attempt to make it ourselves! Barracuda cafe is still around and looking very inviting. Propaganda pectopah has expanded and opened at least one other branch on what used to be 'my' island. Dom Knigi has moved to a less beautiful building way down Nevsky. Everything else is pretty much the same!

One more day, and it's off to Solovki!